Island of Capri has always attracted extraordinary people.
Luisa Casati, the famous red-haired 19th-century slut who, wearing a fur coat and a boa constrictor as a necklace, walked her tigers on San Marco in Venice. Having fallen in love with Casati, I learned that she adored Capri, and I knew it would work out for me too. So my girlfriend and I set off on a romantic getaway. On the very first evening, barely unpacking at the hotel, we went out to dinner and ran into Roman Abramovich and Dasha Zhukova, chastely holding hands, completely absorbed in each other. No one knew they were dating back then, and I felt like a society columnist who'd uncovered a scoop. But then, like a gentleman, I promptly forgot about it. The next day, we went to see Luisa Casati's villa. It was very beautiful from the outside, but we were told it was impossible to go inside—the building was closed to the public. Incidentally, I never went there. And my friends somehow managed it. I'm guessing they bribed the security guard—the easiest way to get what you want in Italy.
Marchesa Luisa Casati as Princess Sissi (1910s)
Villa of the Marquise Luisa Casati
Besides Casati, the bohemian elite from Tiberius to the present day, as well as the entire intellectual elite, including the Russian and early Soviet ones, have all visited here: Jean Cocteau, Le Corbusier, Modigliani, Turgenev, Bunin, Gorky, Lunacharsky, Aivazovsky. But neither Tiberius nor Lunacharsky ever articulated how this small island differed from hundreds of similarly tiny Mediterranean islands.
The best option for a Capri holiday is to rent a boat for a sea excursion.
There are many hotels on Capri, but only two are worth staying at: Capri Palace and Grand Hotel Quisisana. Capri Palace is more modern, with a large spa and other amenities for families with children. Its only drawback is its location in the part of the island called Anacapri, where most of the staff who serve the gentry live. So, although the hotel itself is beautiful, the surroundings are less romantic. The Quisisana is an old, respectable, bourgeois hotel on the shores of the lagoon, and the views from the hotel terraces are breathtakingly beautiful. It belongs to an aristocratic Italian family. The clientele is appropriate—Italian signorinas of a certain age in stunning hats and massive gold jewelry, and tanned Italian signori over sixty, emerging for breakfast in white trousers and pink polo shirts. In the evening, everyone sits in the hotel bar, sipping Aperol and snacking on olives. I wouldn't recommend dining there, though—it's good, but uninteresting. For a good meal, head to Aurora or Villa Verde. The latter is similar to Moscow's Mario—just as elegant and just as pricey. There's also the lovely La Terrazza di Lucullo and Da Paolino Lemon Trees, nestled in a lemon grove—you'll run into anyone there, from Taiwanese to Umar Dzhabrailov.
The respectable "Quizizana" does not complain about the lack of guests
There's no specific gastronomic must-have, or more accurately, must-eat, dish that absolutely must be tried on Capri. Traditional Italian Mediterranean cuisine: lobster, sea bream, pizza, pasta, and so on. The bohemian culture that shaped this island's character apparently wasn't particularly interested in food—they had more interesting things to do. But in the central square, three steps from Quisizana, there's a cult place where you have to buy ice cream. It's essentially no different from the ice cream in Rome or Venice—just as delicious, but nothing more. But for some reason, there's always a line at this particular shop. Incidentally, the scoops are enormous. One is like three in Moscow, three like snowy Mount Kilimanjaro.
The Faraglioni Rocks are the calling card of Capri
What shouldn't you do? Renting a car or bringing your own on the ferry. Strictly speaking, this isn't really possible: neither Avis nor Hertz are represented here. Capri only has two navigable streets: one climbs from the port up to the piazza, the other descends to the port. The others are so narrow that driving is impossible. Even when you check into the Quisisana, a taxi will only take you as far as the piazza. From there, you'll walk, and your luggage will be pushed along. But don't worry, everything is within walking distance, and if you suddenly want to go to Anacapri, you can call a convertible taxi. Parking is no problem—or, for that matter, parking itself.
Avoid wearing high heels. The streets are cobblestone, making it extremely uncomfortable to walk on them in Louboutins. Women in stilettos are more likely to attract surprise than admiration.
Sea view from Via Krupp
Don't book a sunbed on the beach. The beaches on Capri are, to put it mildly, unremarkable. The best option is to rent a boat rather than a sunbed, stock the fridge with a couple of bottles of dry white wine, and cruise the island, swimming in every lagoon that catches your eye. Boats come in all levels of comfort. Some cost a hundred euros a day, others a thousand. But even those over a hundred have fresh water for rinsing off and a deck for lounging with your girlfriend. Whether you need a personal skipper, bosun, and pilot, which are included with a yacht that costs a thousand, is up to you. Most Russian tourists—including, incidentally, Ulyana Zeitlina and Elizaveta Molchanova's family—arrive in Capri on their own yachts, drop anchor in the port, and relax for a few days, while shopping at Versace, Gucci, and Dolce & Gabbana: these boutiques are represented here in typical Italian abundance.
What's worth buying? At least two interesting jewelry brands call Capri their home. Italian Angela Puttini makes antique-inspired pieces, and she has a famous duet: an antique coin in one ear and a long earring in the other. Another must-see boutique is Chantecler. They have an interesting display case featuring a genuine 17th-century carriage, and everyone buys gold pumpkin pendants there to ward off the evil eye. There's also a Chantecler boutique in Milan, but I think pumpkins aren't as popular there; there are more interesting pieces. But in Capri, it's just right.
They also sell beautiful, simple ankle-tie sandals. They're made right there, surprisingly comfortable, and you can choose the color yourself. And of course, linen, lace, and tableware make wonderful souvenirs.
There's also a factory here that produces perfumes, soaps, and other shampoos. In my opinion, the scents are too overtly floral. But it's still interesting to pop in and take a look. And if you suddenly realize you didn't pack enough white shirts or light dresses, or if everything you bought on the island doesn't fit in your suitcase, the Prada and Louis Vuitton boutiques are always at your service.
The main thing that draws me here every year is the countless places to see. It seems like a tiny island, you can walk around it in a couple of hours. But in reality, even after eight years, I haven't managed to thoroughly explore all the surrounding areas.
Many of the villas of celebrities who lived on Capri are open to the public. And even if they aren't, standing next to them and pondering who lived here and what they thought is a special pleasure for me. Capri also offers a ferry to Naples. It's a unique city, but if you're interested in Italian life as it really is, it's a must-see. There are indeed girls in lace sundresses driving around on mopeds, delivering pizza, and ropes stretched across the streets with picturesquely fluttering underwear. If you're worried about your Rolex, leave it in the hotel safe, although I've never had any problems. Naples also has two magnificent museums—the National Gallery and the King's Palace. And the very interesting Cathedral of San Gennaro. People prayed to this saint to protect the city from the lava of Vesuvius.
Twice a year, his relics are carried out of the cathedral and ceremoniously paraded through the city. If you're lucky enough to attend, you won't regret it: it's a truly magnificent spectacle.
Sunny Sorrento, the place Luciano Pavarotti urged everyone to return to, is nearby—it's also a couple of hours' boat ride from Capri. You need to walk all day, eat ice cream at the gelateria on Corso Italia—where, besides you, Ronald Reagan, Mikhail Gorbachev, and Madonna have all eaten. And drink Tears of Christ wine all day—a favorite of Milady from The Three Musketeers. And by evening, you'll realize you're not ready to return because you absolutely don't want to leave.
And finally, nearby is Positano, with its renowned Santa Caterina Hotel, breathtakingly delicious restaurants, and picturesque beaches. Capri is just a couple of hours by boat. Along the way, you'll pass a tiny island that the Italian government once gifted to the great Rudolf Nureyev. His incredibly beautiful villa stands there. Looking at it from the outside, you can't even imagine the luxury inside. Admittedly, you can't officially get in. But in Italy, anything is possible. We managed to do just that by arranging a tour with the hotel concierge. Incidentally, I suspect Nureyev's villa will host this year's Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda show. If you have the opportunity to see it, don't miss it.
Capri, of course, isn't visible from the terrace of the Santa Caterina Hotel. But Positano is right there in the palm of your hand:
The island where Rudolf Nureyev's villa is located
And you can't miss the Blue Lagoon, where the Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue commercial was filmed—remember David Gandy in his swimsuit hugging the dazzling Bianca Balti?—even if you try your best. A small pier nestled among incredibly beautiful cliffs—and there's always someone's yacht moored there, where the girl is every bit as beautiful as Bianca, and the man clearly possesses some qualities that even Gandy lacks.
When my girlfriend and I arrived at Capri The first time I'd been here, I spent some of the happiest hours of my life in this lagoon. It's a good thing they can't carve "We were here—and we were happy" into the sea, otherwise the waves would be covered with such inscriptions.
The “palace” that opened last summer Capri Tiberio Palace (60 rooms and suites) is the reincarnation of the Tiberio Hotel, which welcomed the island’s first guests at the end of the 19th century.
The hotel changed not only its name but also its style. Decorator Giampiero Panepinto transformed the interiors of the neoclassical villa into a resort-style version of the set of the TV series "Mad Men."
Corals, jellyfish, and other sea creatures lend a Mediterranean feel to the 1950s style. The hotel's interiors are decorated in trendy pastel colors.
Panepinto, whose background as a fashion designer obliges him, paid special attention to the fabrics. All of them were designed by him and produced by Dedar and Limonta specifically for the hotel.
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